Thursday, our last full day on Prince Edward Island, was
spent touring the northwest portion of the island, more heavily populated and
toured than the southeast where we were the day previous. Part of this is Anne
of Green Gables country, though we simply drove past Cavendish, where the story
centers and where the island gets most touristy. We began our day with a drive
out to Dalvey-by-the-Sea where we walked along the beach, gathered a bit of driftwood
and I took countless photographs. From there we wandered backroads, some of
them paved and some of them downright scary. Rocinante was in mud up to the
front air dam and 19 inch wheels. Traction control saved the day.
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| Dalvey Beach |
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| Someone made this, I assume |
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| Made? Found? |
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| Mini-tidepool |
Lunch was at Fisherman’s Wharf Lobster Suppers in Rustico
where I also added a hand knit sweater to my collection of Gaelic clothing.
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| Sharon preparing to tuck into the traditional lobster supper. I had mussels, which were fantastic but I regretted passing up the lobster. |
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| I just love what the Celts do with wool, sweaters, jackets, you name it. |
In the afternoon we
had planned to go out to Tignish and Sea Cow Pond at the northwestern most corner
of PEI, but a road was out and it was getting late and we had some plans for
the evening.
We finished the day in The Old Triangle Pub in
Charlottetown, just three blocks from our hotel. What drew us there? Since
neither of us drinks beer or is generally known for our clubbing?
Music. Twice before we have heard Celtic music the way it is
meant to be heard, not from a recording or even a stage, but in a setting like
a pub. Once in Dublin we were directed to an “Irish House Party.” While it was
aimed at tourists the music was real and everyone (even we) participated in
some form. It was fun and I am still in occasional facebook and e-mail contact
with one of the couples there.
But before tonight our most authentic experience came in
York, England when the Black Swan pub hosted a Gaelic music festival over a
weekend when we were there. Musicians came from all over the North and Scotland
and just played together in constantly shifting groups throughout the various
rooms in that large, sprawling pub. There were no playlists or set performers,
people drifted in and out and anyone could start up a tune and people would
come in on it or not as they chose. We spent the better part of the afternoon
there.
Tonight was far more informal. On Thursday nights the
Triangle hosts musicians, buys them beer and in return they play. The format
was much the same as before though people came in and out, folks swapped
instruments back and forth and it seemed like everyone played at least two
instruments. There was a semi-formal
“leader.” Cynthia MacLeod led, mostly through sheer musicianship and force of
personality. When she played the whole group seemed tighter, but there were
probably at least three bands at the big table, guitars, mandolin and fiddles;
flutes, pipes and fiddles; and everyone. From the audience came three groups of
dancers, and a song. And “band”members both sang and danced as the spirit moved
them. My images came from my phone (everyone, including the band, were taking
snaps) but hopefully they help to convey just a bit of the experience.
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| The "band" early in the evening |
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| Musicians kept wandering in over the course of three hours or more |
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